Matte Pressed Eye Shadow
To make a matte eye shadow we use less mica and more dense pigments such as oxides. These pigments need a different filler base than the mica based eye shadows for the pigments to have a nice slip and slide especially on the eyelid!
The base is rich in rice or oat silk powder (depending on your personal preference), and packed with minerals which makes these perfectly curated silky matte eye shadows created for easy application on skin that is thin. These shades can be applied either beautifully bold (when wetted) or subtle for everyday eye looks.
This collection of hues is ideal for shading, highlighting, and defining the eyes.
The satin matte shadows can be used as a liner, on the lid, and in the crease of the eye for an expertly contoured and blended look.
The main components needed to make pressed matte eye shadows are: Naturderm IL, Pigment Blend and Base Filler, Plus empty tin pans and pressing equipment.
Note: Because these eye shadows are pigmented mostly with oxides and less mica than the mica based eyeshadows they need to have more filler in order for the eye shadows have a good slip and slide. The naturderm IL is a natural silicone replacement which we use for all our pressed foundations, blushers and shaders.
To make the Pigment you need both the pigment and filler
Base Filler
Ingredients:
Grind the above powders in a mortar and pestle or coffee grinder
Here are recipes for 2 palettes of eyeshadows that will suit most eye colours
Here are 2 palettes for you to try!
Palette No 1
comprises of: Charcoal, Smokey, Midnight Blue, Steel Blue, Ivory and Champagne
1. Charcoal Pigment BlendIngredients:
Grind the above powders in a mortar and pestle or coffee grinder.
To make a pressed eye shadow. Mix 1 teaspoon of the above Matte pigment with 3 teaspoons of base filler and mix in a few drops of Naturderm IL until you get a texture like “wet sand”.
You will need to practice until you get the right consistency. Place the “sand” into a 26mm tin pan, smooth down with a palette knife, place a piece of pressing ribbon on top and press with a pressing tile or pressing tool that fits the 26mm tin pan). For a great press it is best to use a mini-pressing clamp. This useful little tool gives a very nice evenly distributed press across the surface of any pressed eyeshadow pan. Not much exertion is needed to get a really good press, the idea is to let the clamp do the work and it will.
Simply place the right size pressing tile on top of your makeup and clamp. To avoid marking the underside of the pan when pressing, place a pressing tile under side before using the clamp.
If the mixture sticks to the pressing ribbon, it’s too wet, if this happens just remix with added dry pigment and try again!
2. Smokey Pigment BlendIngredients:
Grind the above powders in a mortar and pestle or coffee grinder.
To make a pressed eye shadow. Mix ½ teaspoon of the above Matte pigment with 3 teaspoons of base filler and mix in a few drops of Naturderm IL until you get a texture like “wet sand”.
3. Midnight Blue Pigment BlendIngredients:
Grind the above powders in a mortar and pestle or coffee grinder.
To make a pressed eye shadow. Mix the above 1 ¼ teaspoons of Matte pigment with 2 teaspoons of base filler and mix in a few drops of Naturderm IL until you get a texture like “wet sand”.
4. Steel Blue Pigment BlendIngredients:
Grind the above powders in a mortar and pestle or coffee grinder.
To make a pressed eye shadow. Mix the above ¾ teaspoons of Matte pigment with 4 teaspoons of base filler and mix in a few drops of Naturderm IL until you get a texture like “wet sand”.
Palette No 2
Comprises of: Burnt Umber, Seal, Hunter Green, Fern Green, Ivory and Champagne
1. Burnt Umber Pigment BlendIngredients:
Grind the above powders in a mortar and pestle or coffee grinder.
To make a pressed eye shadow. Mix the above 1 ¼ teaspoons of Matte pigment with 3 or 4 teaspoons of base filler and mix in a few drops of Naturderm IL until you get a texture like “wet sand”.
2. Seal Pigment Blend Ingredients:
Grind the above powders in a mortar and pestle or coffee grinder.
To make a pressed eye shadow. Mix the above 1 ¼ teaspoons of Matte pigment with 2 teaspoons of base filler and mix in a few drops of Naturderm IL until you get a texture like “wet sand”.
3. Hunter Green Pigment BlendIngredients:
Grind the above powders in a mortar and pestle or coffee grinder.
To make a pressed eye shadow. Mix the above Matte pigment with 2 teaspoons of base filler and mix in a few drops of Naturderm IL until you get a texture like “wet sand”.
4. Fern Green Pigment BlendThis is done in two parts:
Ingredients:
Grind the above powders in a mortar and pestle or coffee grinder.
To make a pressed eye shadow. Mix the above Matte pigment with 2 teaspoons of base filler and mix in a few drops of Naturderm IL until you get a texture like “wet sand”.
Highlighters - The Champagne highlighter and Ivory highlighter base works with both palettes!
1. Champagne - Highlighter Pigment BlendIngredients:
Grind the above powders in a mortar and pestle or coffee grinder.
To make a pressed eye shadow. Mix 2 ½ teaspoons of the above Matte pigment with 2 teaspoons of base filler and mix in a few drops of Naturderm IL until you get a texture like “wet sand”.
2. Ivory – Base/Highlighter Pigment BlendThis is a good base to put onto the eyelids as a base as it adapts quite magically to most Caucasian and Asian skin tones
Ingredients:
Grind the above powders in a mortar and pestle or coffee grinder.
To make a pressed eye shadow. Mix 1 teaspoon of the above Matte pigment with 4 teaspoons of base filler and mix in a few drops of Naturderm IL until you get a texture like “wet sand”.
The base is rich in rice or oat silk powder (depending on your personal preference), and packed with minerals which makes these perfectly curated silky matte eye shadows created for easy application on skin that is thin. These shades can be applied either beautifully bold (when wetted) or subtle for everyday eye looks.
This collection of hues is ideal for shading, highlighting, and defining the eyes.
The satin matte shadows can be used as a liner, on the lid, and in the crease of the eye for an expertly contoured and blended look.
The main components needed to make pressed matte eye shadows are: Naturderm IL, Pigment Blend and Base Filler, Plus empty tin pans and pressing equipment.
Note: Because these eye shadows are pigmented mostly with oxides and less mica than the mica based eyeshadows they need to have more filler in order for the eye shadows have a good slip and slide. The naturderm IL is a natural silicone replacement which we use for all our pressed foundations, blushers and shaders.
To make the Pigment you need both the pigment and filler
Base Filler
Ingredients:
- 7 teaspoons Rice Powder (cosmetic grade) or Oat Silk Powder (Cosmetic Grade)
- 2 teaspoons Titanium dioxide
- 1 ½ teaspoon Zinc oxide
- 1 teaspoon Kaolin clay
- 1 teaspoon Satin pearl mica
- ½ teaspoon Magnesium stearate
- 1 teaspoon mica coated with carnauba
Grind the above powders in a mortar and pestle or coffee grinder
Here are recipes for 2 palettes of eyeshadows that will suit most eye colours
Here are 2 palettes for you to try!
Palette No 1
comprises of: Charcoal, Smokey, Midnight Blue, Steel Blue, Ivory and Champagne
1. Charcoal Pigment BlendIngredients:
- 4 teaspoons Black Oxide
- 2 teaspoons Diamond Black Mica
Grind the above powders in a mortar and pestle or coffee grinder.
To make a pressed eye shadow. Mix 1 teaspoon of the above Matte pigment with 3 teaspoons of base filler and mix in a few drops of Naturderm IL until you get a texture like “wet sand”.
You will need to practice until you get the right consistency. Place the “sand” into a 26mm tin pan, smooth down with a palette knife, place a piece of pressing ribbon on top and press with a pressing tile or pressing tool that fits the 26mm tin pan). For a great press it is best to use a mini-pressing clamp. This useful little tool gives a very nice evenly distributed press across the surface of any pressed eyeshadow pan. Not much exertion is needed to get a really good press, the idea is to let the clamp do the work and it will.
Simply place the right size pressing tile on top of your makeup and clamp. To avoid marking the underside of the pan when pressing, place a pressing tile under side before using the clamp.
If the mixture sticks to the pressing ribbon, it’s too wet, if this happens just remix with added dry pigment and try again!
2. Smokey Pigment BlendIngredients:
- 4 teaspoons Black Oxide
- 2 teaspoons Diamond Black Mica
Grind the above powders in a mortar and pestle or coffee grinder.
To make a pressed eye shadow. Mix ½ teaspoon of the above Matte pigment with 3 teaspoons of base filler and mix in a few drops of Naturderm IL until you get a texture like “wet sand”.
3. Midnight Blue Pigment BlendIngredients:
- ¾ teaspoon Ultramarine Blue
- ½ teaspoon Black Oxide
Grind the above powders in a mortar and pestle or coffee grinder.
To make a pressed eye shadow. Mix the above 1 ¼ teaspoons of Matte pigment with 2 teaspoons of base filler and mix in a few drops of Naturderm IL until you get a texture like “wet sand”.
4. Steel Blue Pigment BlendIngredients:
- ½ teaspoon Ultramarine Blue
- ¼ teaspoon Black Oxide
Grind the above powders in a mortar and pestle or coffee grinder.
To make a pressed eye shadow. Mix the above ¾ teaspoons of Matte pigment with 4 teaspoons of base filler and mix in a few drops of Naturderm IL until you get a texture like “wet sand”.
Palette No 2
Comprises of: Burnt Umber, Seal, Hunter Green, Fern Green, Ivory and Champagne
1. Burnt Umber Pigment BlendIngredients:
- 1 teaspoon Dark Brown Oxide
- ¼ teaspoon Imperial Topaz Mica
Grind the above powders in a mortar and pestle or coffee grinder.
To make a pressed eye shadow. Mix the above 1 ¼ teaspoons of Matte pigment with 3 or 4 teaspoons of base filler and mix in a few drops of Naturderm IL until you get a texture like “wet sand”.
2. Seal Pigment Blend Ingredients:
- 1 teaspoon Imperial Topaz Mica
- ¼ teaspoon Dark Brown Oxide
Grind the above powders in a mortar and pestle or coffee grinder.
To make a pressed eye shadow. Mix the above 1 ¼ teaspoons of Matte pigment with 2 teaspoons of base filler and mix in a few drops of Naturderm IL until you get a texture like “wet sand”.
3. Hunter Green Pigment BlendIngredients:
- ½ teaspoon Green Oxide
- ¼ teaspoon Ultramarine Blue
- ¼ teaspoon Black Oxide
Grind the above powders in a mortar and pestle or coffee grinder.
To make a pressed eye shadow. Mix the above Matte pigment with 2 teaspoons of base filler and mix in a few drops of Naturderm IL until you get a texture like “wet sand”.
4. Fern Green Pigment BlendThis is done in two parts:
Ingredients:
- 1 teaspoon of the above Hunter Green Pigment Blend
- ½ teaspoon Imperial Citrine
Grind the above powders in a mortar and pestle or coffee grinder.
To make a pressed eye shadow. Mix the above Matte pigment with 2 teaspoons of base filler and mix in a few drops of Naturderm IL until you get a texture like “wet sand”.
Highlighters - The Champagne highlighter and Ivory highlighter base works with both palettes!
1. Champagne - Highlighter Pigment BlendIngredients:
- 1 teaspoon Balance Red Mica
- 1 teaspoon Satin Pearl Mica
- ½ teaspoon Pearl Nude Mica
Grind the above powders in a mortar and pestle or coffee grinder.
To make a pressed eye shadow. Mix 2 ½ teaspoons of the above Matte pigment with 2 teaspoons of base filler and mix in a few drops of Naturderm IL until you get a texture like “wet sand”.
2. Ivory – Base/Highlighter Pigment BlendThis is a good base to put onto the eyelids as a base as it adapts quite magically to most Caucasian and Asian skin tones
Ingredients:
- 1 teaspoon Imperial Topaz Mica
- 1 teaspoon Imperial Citrine Mica
- 1 teaspoon Pearl Nude Mica
Grind the above powders in a mortar and pestle or coffee grinder.
To make a pressed eye shadow. Mix 1 teaspoon of the above Matte pigment with 4 teaspoons of base filler and mix in a few drops of Naturderm IL until you get a texture like “wet sand”.